Decode your
declarations page.

The most important document in your insurance file is also the most ignored. Here's how to read one — section by section, in plain English — so you actually know what you have.

Every auto and home policy comes with a "declarations page" — usually one or two pages, often called the "dec sheet" by people in the business. It's the cover sheet of your policy, the summary, the cheat sheet. Almost everything you'd want to know about your coverage is on it.

And almost nobody reads it.

The good news: once you know what each section is for, it takes about 90 seconds to scan a dec page and know what you have. Here's the walkthrough.

01

The Header

What you'll see: Carrier name and logo. Policy number. Sometimes a customer service phone number.

Usually the top inch of the page. Boring but important — the policy number is the unique identifier the insurance company uses to find your file. Have it handy when you call about anything.

What to check: Is the carrier name what you expect? People sometimes get switched between subsidiaries (like from a parent company to a regional carrier) without noticing. The legal entity matters in a claim.

02

Named Insured & Address

What you'll see: Your name (or names). Your mailing address. The "garaging address" if it's different.

The named insured is who the policy is written for. If you're married, both spouses should usually be named. If your kid drives the car, that's a separate question — sometimes they're named, sometimes they're a "rated driver" elsewhere on the policy.

The garaging address is where the car is kept overnight. That address is what your rates are based on, not the address on your driver's license.

What to check: Are all the drivers in your household on the policy somewhere? If you got married, had a teen start driving, or moved — does the policy reflect that? An out-of-date dec page can become a coverage problem in a claim.

03

Policy Period

What you'll see: "Policy Period: 03/15/2026 to 09/15/2026" or similar.

The window the policy is in force. Auto policies are usually six months. Home policies are usually twelve. Anything that happens outside this window — before or after — isn't covered by this policy.

What to check: Is the renewal coming up soon? The 30 days before renewal is the best time to shop your rate, because you can switch without canceling early. Most people miss it.

04

Vehicles (or Property) Covered

What you'll see: Year, make, model, VIN. For homes: address, year built, square footage, sometimes construction type.

The thing the policy actually covers. Each vehicle on an auto policy gets its own line. Each line has its own coverages and deductibles — they don't have to all match.

What to check: Are all your vehicles listed? Did you sell one and forget to remove it? Is the new car you bought three weeks ago on there? Insurance companies usually give you a grace period to add a new vehicle, but it's not unlimited.

05

Coverages and Limits — The Important Part

What you'll see: A grid of coverages with dollar amounts next to each one.

This is the section that actually defines what your policy does. Most dec pages show it as a table or list, with each coverage and the corresponding limit or deductible. Here's what you're looking for, in order of importance:

Bodily Injury Liability e.g. $100,000 / $300,000 The single most important number on your policy. Per person / per accident. Why it matters →
Property Damage Liability e.g. $50,000 Pays for things you damage in someone else's world. Texas minimum is $25K. Average new car: ~$48K. Math doesn't math.
UM / UIM Bodily Injury e.g. $100,000 / $300,000 Protects you from drivers who don't have enough insurance — or any. In Texas, UM/UIM limits cannot exceed your BI limits, so this line should usually match your bodily injury number above. If it's blank or says "REJECTED," that's a conversation.
Personal Injury Protection (PIP) e.g. $2,500 or REJECTED Pays your medical bills regardless of fault. Cheap. Often declined without realizing it.
Medical Payments (MedPay) e.g. $5,000 Optional. Stacks with PIP. Useful for passengers who aren't on your health insurance.
Collision $500 deductible Fixes your car after a crash. The dollar amount is your deductible, not the coverage limit.
Comprehensive (Other Than Collision) $500 deductible Hail, theft, fire, flood, deer. Same deductible structure.
Rental Reimbursement e.g. $30/day, $900 max Optional. Pays for a rental while your car is in the shop after a covered claim.
Towing & Labor / Roadside e.g. $75 per occurrence Cheap to add. Worth it if you don't have AAA or a manufacturer roadside program.

What to check: Are your liability limits in line with what you actually own and earn? Is UM/UIM rejected? Are there coverages you're paying for and don't need (or coverages missing that you'd want)? This is the part to spend the most time on.

06

Discounts Applied

What you'll see: A list of discounts, usually with a percentage or dollar amount next to each.

Multi-policy (bundling), good driver, paid-in-full, paperless, defensive driving course, anti-theft device, garaged in a low-risk area — there are lots of them. Carriers don't always apply every discount you qualify for automatically. Reviewing this section is one of the easiest ways to find money you're leaving on the table.

What to check: Are there obvious discounts missing? Did you take a defensive driving course? Did you install a security system? Did you get married, have a kid, get a college degree, become a homeowner? Each of those can move the needle.

07

Premium Summary

What you'll see: A breakdown of what you're paying — total premium, payment plan, fees.

The total annual premium, broken down by coverage or by vehicle or both. Often shows the payment schedule (monthly, quarterly, paid in full).

What to check: Did your premium go up at renewal? By how much? Most carriers raise rates 5–10% annually almost as a default — and inflation has pushed that higher. A premium that jumped more than that without an obvious reason (claim, ticket, address change) is worth a phone call.

08

Lienholders & Additional Insureds

What you'll see: The bank or credit union that financed your car or home, listed as a "loss payee" or "lienholder."

If you have a loan on the car or a mortgage on the house, the lender is listed here. They're entitled to be notified about coverage changes and to be paid first if there's a total loss. This is also where additional insureds (a landlord, a business partner) would appear.

What to check: If you've paid off the loan, is the lienholder still listed? Removing them is a quick call. Also: is the lienholder address correct? An out-of-date address there can delay claim payments.

09

Endorsements and Forms

What you'll see: A list of cryptic codes — "PP-04-29 (08-86)" or "TX-AU-101" — usually at the bottom of the dec page or on a separate sheet.

Endorsements are the modifications and add-ons to the standard policy. Each one is identified by a form code. The codes themselves are dense, but their job is to either add a coverage, exclude a coverage, or change how something works.

One specific endorsement that matters more than most in 2026: the rideshare endorsement. If you drive for Uber, Lyft, DoorDash, Instacart, or Amazon Flex, this is the form that keeps your coverage active during gig driving. Why this matters →

What to check: If you're not sure what an endorsement does, ask. Common ones: scheduled personal property (jewelry, collectibles), water/sewer backup coverage, identity theft protection, mechanical breakdown coverage, rideshare/delivery use. Some are worth keeping; some are filler.

Want help reading yours?

Send us your declarations page (the cover sheet of your policy) and we'll go through it with you in plain English. We'll flag what looks off, what looks fine, and what we'd change. No obligation, no upsell, no follow-up phone tree.

Send My Dec Page for Review